Ever since digital SLR became widely accepted there has been many discussions on the pros and cons of shooting in RAW vs JPG format.
A RAW format file of a digital photo can have its photo attributes such as exposure, white balance, amount of in-camera sharpening or contrast etc reverted or readjusted after a photo has been shot; whereas a JPG format digital photo file is stuck with its photo attributes like a regular slide film. There is, however, a wide misconception that a RAW file can be adjusted to no limits. This is simply physically impossible. A photo shot at a certainly exposure value is always different from a photo shot at a different exposure value in RAW format and then having the exposure value readjusted to compensate for the difference afterwords no matter how sophisticated the camera or RAW file converter application is. That is because the actual amount of light fall on to the digital photo sensor has already been fixed at the point the photo being taken. One may be able to get away with 1 or 2 EV difference but that’s about it. It is just an easy and self-explanatory way to correct the exposure of the digital photo, not any time reversal voodoo magic.
That said, white balance on a RAW file however might have a greater degree of post shot adjustment than exposure since the “juggling” of the amount of each individual color within the photo sensor is essentially the same on camera or off camera. Yet, a color correction filter in front of the lens during the shot is still a relatively more noise free way than any digital white balance on or off camera.
When I first started using digital SLR camera, I also shot a lot in RAW format. That was because the Auto White Balance function on earlier digital cameras did not produce as ideal a white balance as one would expect from such an expensive piece of equipment. That has always boggled me since even today, the Auto White Balance function on my Nikon D2X SLR camera is still inferior to that on my Nikon Coolpix S10 Point and Shoot camera! In fact, the AWB function on the S10 is so good that it turned some moody tungsten situations into boring daylight! It would have been nice if the AWB function on my digital SLRs have such a good auto white balance starting point the S10 gives that can be tuned on camera to “dial in” the wanted mood.
Since I started photography with manual cameras and film, I have a pretty good grasp on the exposure of a given situation especially under open daylight. When I shoot with the all manual Rolleicord camera outdoors with slide film, I often shoot without a light meter and solely rely on the Sunny 16 Rule. Auto everything is convenient for speedy snapshots but not entirely necessary for static shots. One can always bracket the exposure to one’s heart’s content. Besides, even with RAW file, people bracket or extract different exposures from the same RAW file to be combined later for HDR (high dynamic range) photos. So the bracketed shots are not all a waste.
Nowadays, with a good size on camera LCD display with color coded histograms for reference, one should be able to dial-in the correct adjustment settings within just a few shots. Yet the amount of file conversion time and harddisk space can greatly be reduced by shooting JPG if one had the right on camera settings to begin with. So, in the past year or so, I have been shooting JPG mainly.
One may argue that JPG is final. Then again, so is film. One could still adjust JPG files a great deal with a good post processing application and techniques if one knew what to do. To be honest, I was stuck with a few sets of photos shot in RAW that I had trouble color correcting them due to the fact that I was new with that camera and I was too tardy with studying the on camera settings. I am currently more comfortable with adjusting a JPG file than a RAW file. Don’t know why that is.
As with the image quality such as sharpness, the difference between the two formats is essentially indecipherable to me with such a high resolution photo to be resized for monitor display on the Web or even 8×10 printing. One doesn’t need to convince others to use one digital photo file format over another. Just use which ever one you are most comfortable with.
WhaUSay?!